CragBaby: How To Mentally Recover From An Accident
paulbeiser
· 4 months ago
Hi Rachel, Thanks for writing this, I know it must have not been easy. Take care, Paul
WasatchGirl
· 4 months ago
Ah, thanks for reading and comment, Paul. Best. Rachel
lil chicka
· 4 months ago
Rachel, you are an extremely resilient and determined person- you have handled this unfortunate accident with courage, grace, and open candor (like most everything you do in life :) Great advice, though I hope no one ever needs it! So glad you have been able to move forward and continue to enjoy climbing!
WasatchGirl
· 4 months ago
Thanks, Lil Chicka. I appreciate your kind words. Hope you are well and that we can catch up this week! Rachel
justaguy11
· 3 months ago
Rach, wow, I didn't know this story about your climbing/accident experience. So, I've been dropped (to the deck, 25 feet) once by a belaying partner, and I've taken a trad lead fall on a never-before-climbed route (using double ropes) that was made static by the way in which my belayer and I erred. I walked away from the first accident (relaxed body + fitness + lifelong ability to hit and roll + forgiving landing surface). The second accident slammed me into the wall with so much force that I (6 years later) exploded/severed my Achilles tendon, which was the start of a my own mini Joe Simpson-esque self rescue story that involved me hopping for 2 miles, and crawling uphill for another half mile..and soloing 5.6ish with one leg for another 25 feet to reach my truck for the ride to the ER. The happy ending is that since the Achilles explosion, and my subsequent (loooooooong) recovery, I'm leading low 12ish Sport and low 11ish trad again...and I'm able to run trail half marathons. So, not a *complete* comeback, but pretty good. (I have a book full of other injury comeback stories, but the injuries were not incurred by climbing, so they probably aren't relevant).
Here is what I did to come back, mentally, from getting badly hurt while leading: 1. Started at the gym, as you did. 2. Went to a very familiar crag, as you did. 3. Took THE MOST TRUSTED BELAYER I KNEW with me (hardman who is also a PhD physicist..and so deeply understands the forces involved in climbing falls, as I do). 4. I went up a very familiar, well bolted route, which is sheer and overhanging enough to provide clean air for a fall. 5. I jumped off. 6. I jumped off again. 7. I then did laps on the route until I was too pumped to finish the route, so I fell off. (This was the scariest of all, since the "I can't. Hang. On. Any. Longer." feeling is inherently the most terrifying aspect of a climbing fall). 8. Did it again.
That activity seemed to clear most of the left over climbing-fall rubble out of my head. It re-established, at a gut level, that the systems *do* work, when you and your partner use them correctly. In essence, it removed the IRRATIONAL fear from climbing What I was left with was only the RATIONAL fear.....which, seriously, is what you want all the time anyway. RATIONAL fear can be managed...through training, practice, good process (good gear, good double checks, good belays setups)...
I'd like to add that *other* inherently dangerous, but manageable sports, emphasize AD NAUSEUM the need to repeat, EVERY TIME, the same checklist for the activity. Talk to any good pilot about his preflight checklist, and you'll see them walk through the same safety process EVERY TIME. This goes for hang-glider pilots, and every other kind of aircraft. Talk to skydivers about their checklists and watch them go through them EVERY SINGLE TIME.
Climbers really need to internalize that kind of mindset: The sport has rational risks, which you manage by not cutting corners, ever. Period. Double check all harnesses. All ropes. All gear. Every time.Double check all belays when you reach them. Ask about gear, placements, rope, rock edges, directionals, etc, everytime ANYTHING occurs to you. Having your partner quiz you about your placements is a welcome chance to stop and assess with new eyes. It makes both of you safer. The first, highest, and only starting priority is this: "Have we made everyone safe?".
Last weekend, I prepared to tie in to the tail end of a buddy's rope to do a route. He said: "Check the last 3 feet of that rope, and cut it off if you don't like it." I did, and I did. He said, "I checked the whole length of that rope last night when I was getting ready to come out here, and I meant to trim that abraded section, but forgot. I didn't want to put you on that."
This is the kind of partner you want.
Happy comeback. You'll get there, and you'll be the better climber..for both you AND whoever you choose as a partner...for it.
Greg
P.S. I have the luxury of climbing with people who do serious remote backcountry routes...and who understand in their gut the absolute necessity of not screwing up...but every weekend cragger needs that same mentality before getting on any popular sport route. Because Gravity never sleeps. ;-)
WasatchGirl
· 3 months ago
Greg, I really appreciate you taking the time to write up this information. It is a good addition to my post. Thank you! Rachel
justaguy11
· 3 months ago
Wow. This disqus system just deleted a long, and detailed comment about climbing safety that I wrote. *sigh*
WasatchGirl
· 3 months ago
Greg, I just had to approve it first. Don't fret... =) Rach
rockgrrl
· 3 months ago
I'd like to also thank you for writing this Rachel, since I've been following you on Twitter I know you've been making progress and am happy to see this post from you. All the best, Eileen
WasatchGirl
· 3 months ago
Eileen, Hey, thanks girl! I much appreciate the comment. Hopefully we can catch up in J-Tree soon! Best. Rachel
Name
· 3 months ago
Hi- I am recovering from a serious climbing accident, and I appreciate reading this. So far it has been pretty comfortable to climb on routes that I have done before and terrifying to go to places I have not been on. I am finding that just climbing again is hard enough (mentally and physically) and the uncertainty of the unknown is too much. So, for me that tip is ringing true. I am still tempted to quit climbing (in spite of my entire life being oriented around it) and I find myself wondering why I am replacing gear lost/destroyed in the accident. But, I hope that I will find joy in climbing again.
WasatchGirl
· 3 months ago
Yep, I completely relate with the familiar climbs. I am just now being able to go check out new lines. However, I notice that I like to climb to the first bolt and ensure the system is working (meaning I never onsight). But if this is what makes me feel comfortable.. I should do it.
Thank you for putting up this comment as many points resonate with me. I hope you can recover and I would appreciate any additional comments from you to hear about your recovery process.
Thanks for stopping by and best of luck. Rachel
evilphil
· 2 months ago
Glad you've getting over the accident - I always use a buddy check system when on a rope, kinda like diving really. Triple checking keeps you safe so you're doing it right.
That being said, bouldering rules.
WasatchGirl
· 2 months ago
EvilPhil, Thanks for the comment. :) Haha, bouldering DOES rule ... and right now we have perfect temps in Little Cottonwood Canyon. :) Rach
All Comments
Thanks for writing this, I know it must have not been easy.
Take care,
Paul
Best.
Rachel
Hope you are well and that we can catch up this week!
Rachel
The second accident slammed me into the wall with so much force that I (6 years later) exploded/severed my Achilles tendon, which was the start of a my own mini Joe Simpson-esque self rescue story that involved me hopping for 2 miles, and crawling uphill for another half mile..and soloing 5.6ish with one leg for another 25 feet to reach my truck for the ride to the ER.
The happy ending is that since the Achilles explosion, and my subsequent (loooooooong) recovery, I'm leading low 12ish Sport and low 11ish trad again...and I'm able to run trail half marathons. So, not a *complete* comeback, but pretty good.
(I have a book full of other injury comeback stories, but the injuries were not incurred by climbing, so they probably aren't relevant).
Here is what I did to come back, mentally, from getting badly hurt while leading:
1. Started at the gym, as you did.
2. Went to a very familiar crag, as you did.
3. Took THE MOST TRUSTED BELAYER I KNEW with me (hardman who is also a PhD physicist..and so deeply understands the forces involved in climbing falls, as I do).
4. I went up a very familiar, well bolted route, which is sheer and overhanging enough to provide clean air for a fall.
5. I jumped off.
6. I jumped off again.
7. I then did laps on the route until I was too pumped to finish the route, so I fell off. (This was the scariest of all, since the "I can't. Hang. On. Any. Longer." feeling is inherently the most terrifying aspect of a climbing fall).
8. Did it again.
That activity seemed to clear most of the left over climbing-fall rubble out of my head. It re-established, at a gut level, that the systems *do* work, when you and your partner use them correctly. In essence, it removed the IRRATIONAL fear from climbing What I was left with was only the RATIONAL fear.....which, seriously, is what you want all the time anyway. RATIONAL fear can be managed...through training, practice, good process (good gear, good double checks, good belays setups)...
I'd like to add that *other* inherently dangerous, but manageable sports, emphasize AD NAUSEUM the need to repeat, EVERY TIME, the same checklist for the activity. Talk to any good pilot about his preflight checklist, and you'll see them walk through the same safety process EVERY TIME. This goes for hang-glider pilots, and every other kind of aircraft. Talk to skydivers about their checklists and watch them go through them EVERY SINGLE TIME.
Climbers really need to internalize that kind of mindset: The sport has rational risks, which you manage by not cutting corners, ever. Period. Double check all harnesses. All ropes. All gear. Every time.Double check all belays when you reach them. Ask about gear, placements, rope, rock edges, directionals, etc, everytime ANYTHING occurs to you. Having your partner quiz you about your placements is a welcome chance to stop and assess with new eyes. It makes both of you safer. The first, highest, and only starting priority is this: "Have we made everyone safe?".
Last weekend, I prepared to tie in to the tail end of a buddy's rope to do a route. He said: "Check the last 3 feet of that rope, and cut it off if you don't like it." I did, and I did.
He said, "I checked the whole length of that rope last night when I was getting ready to come out here, and I meant to trim that abraded section, but forgot. I didn't want to put you on that."
This is the kind of partner you want.
Happy comeback. You'll get there, and you'll be the better climber..for both you AND whoever you choose as a partner...for it.
Greg
P.S. I have the luxury of climbing with people who do serious remote backcountry routes...and who understand in their gut the absolute necessity of not screwing up...but every weekend cragger needs that same mentality before getting on any popular sport route. Because Gravity never sleeps. ;-)
I really appreciate you taking the time to write up this information. It is a good addition to my post.
Thank you!
Rachel
I just had to approve it first. Don't fret... =)
Rach
All the best,
Eileen
Hey, thanks girl! I much appreciate the comment.
Hopefully we can catch up in J-Tree soon!
Best.
Rachel
I am recovering from a serious climbing accident, and I appreciate reading this. So far it has been pretty comfortable to climb on routes that I have done before and terrifying to go to places I have not been on. I am finding that just climbing again is hard enough (mentally and physically) and the uncertainty of the unknown is too much. So, for me that tip is ringing true. I am still tempted to quit climbing (in spite of my entire life being oriented around it) and I find myself wondering why I am replacing gear lost/destroyed in the accident. But, I hope that I will find joy in climbing again.
Thank you for putting up this comment as many points resonate with me. I hope you can recover and I would appreciate any additional comments from you to hear about your recovery process.
Thanks for stopping by and best of luck.
Rachel
That being said, bouldering rules.
Thanks for the comment. :)
Haha, bouldering DOES rule ... and right now we have perfect temps in Little Cottonwood Canyon. :)
Rach